When Joel Russ emigrated from Austria-Hungary to the United States in 1907, he kicked off his career by selling strings of mushrooms that he carried on his shoulders. After running his business out of a pushcart and then a horse and wagon, Joel was able to open up his first brick-and-mortar “appetizing” shop in 1914 (first on Orchard Street in the Lower East Side, and later at the current location on East Houston Street in 1920). During this time he and his wife, Bella, had three daughters: Hattie, Anne and Ida. Hattie began learning the business in 1924 and her sisters came in to help shortly after. The shop was renamed “Russ and Daughters” in 1933, which caused quite a ruckus in the neighborhood—women just didn’t run businesses in those days. Sadly, Joel passed away in 1961, and later Anne’s son Mark Russ Federman took over the shop in 1978. This story is from Kinfolk Issue Fifteen Buy Now Related Stories Food Issue 40 Chow Mein & Jello An ode to the buffet. Food Issue 35 Modern Fancy The humble origins of high-end food. Arts & Culture Food Issue 34 Last Supper What to eat at a funeral. Food Sanchez A taste of Mexico in Denmark. Food City Guide Chulwha From nature to table—via the grill: A new private dining experience in Seoul. Food Issue 29 Pep Talk Does pepper deserve its seat at the table?
Food City Guide Chulwha From nature to table—via the grill: A new private dining experience in Seoul.