Ilulissat

Ilulissat means “icebergs,” and you couldn’t find a more appropriate name for this coastal Greenlandic town of some 4,600 inhabitants (and almost as many dogs). Here, at the mouth of the Ilulissat Icefjord, called Kangia in the Greenlandic language, huge icebergs break off from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier at a rate of around 20 billion tons each year.

These enormous icebergs, which float out along the blue waters of Disko Bay, are visible from almost every location in the city; some are as tall as skyscrapers. Nevertheless, you should walk the short distance south to the abandoned Inuit settlement at Sermermiut to get closer views of the drama. Sermeq Kujalleq is the fastest-flowing glacier in the world, moving at an average of 44 yards (40 m) each day. It is also a symbol of the global climate crisis; its meltwater is contributing to the world’s rising oceans, and, in just one decade, between 2002 and 2012, the glacier retreated the same distance as it had during the entire century prior.

It’s an easy stroll from Ilulissat to Sermermiut—just over half a mile (1 km) along a wooden boardwalk—and the scenery is astounding for the duration. Being some 200 miles (300 km) north of the Arctic Circle means that you can also venture out at any time of the day or night thanks to the midnight sun, which doesn’t set from early June until late July.

The most spectacular view over the mouth of the fjord can be found at nearby Nakkaavik. Because the waters are relatively shallow here, around 1,000 feet (300 m) deep, the biggest icebergs get stranded; below the water, some have an underside of 1,500 feet (460 m). Nakkaavik means “the place where you fall” and as the story goes, in a period of famine in local history, some town elders threw themselves from these cliffs to allow the younger generations to have enough food to survive and continue the settlement.

When you arrive at the viewing site, you should find a spot on the rock, and sit down and relax. “Experiencing nature in the light of the midnight sun is something that allows me to be present here and now,” says Elisabeth Momme, who manages the Ilulissat Icefjord Center. “It makes me just enjoy the moment—something I think that most modern people are not very good at, but it comes naturally here.”

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The Ilulissat Icefjord Center is an attraction in itself thanks to its contemporary architecture. The building was designed by Danish architect Dorte Mandrup to symbolize the wingspan of the snowy owl. The structure is integrated into the landscape, so much so that the boardwalk to Sermermiut will take you right over its roof. Inside, exhibitions celebrate the ice, the abundant wildlife and the local culture, with programming that seeks to educate the public on climate change.

“With these views, you have to stop and just try to grasp the greatness silently,” Momme advises, looking out through the building’s glass walls. “Viewing the icebergs reflected in the calm ocean is something very special to me, and I think I am very blessed to be able to experience that almost every day.”

Another way to experience the ice is on one of the many midnight sun cruises offered from the small harbor in the city. A half-hour cruise will transport you to another world. When the captain turns off the engine, the silence is almost frightening. To be surrounded by the towering icebergs, with only the sound of the seabirds and the occasional moaning of the ice as it releases tension, is an exercise in perspective: you are reminded of how small you are.

It is generally best to visit Ilulissat during the summer months, when hiking is less complicated and temperatures relatively mild; you can get by with a light jacket.

The midnight sun is a draw in its own right. On night cruises, the light from the sun illuminates the icebergs with colors—yellows, oranges, reds and blues—that aren’t seen at other times of the year.

Just as each iceberg has its own unique form, every evening in Ilulissat is different: the icebergs are always moving, turning and drifting through the bay. And, just as the forces of nature are changing the ice all the time, you may find yourself changed by the experience.

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GETTING THERE
Ilulissat can be reached year-round on domestic flights that connect through Kangerlussuaq Airport. In the summer, flights also arrive via Iceland. If you want a more scenic and slower arrival, you can take the Arctic Umiaq Line ferry, which connects most towns on the west coast of Greenland.

SEE & TOUR
There are some exciting restaurants in Ilulissat at Hotel Icefiord and Hotel Arctic, which offer a localized version of New Nordic cuisine featuring traditional Greenlandic ingredients like deer, musk ox, cod, shrimp, mussels and whale. Otherwise, a halibut burger is considered a local specialty.

STAY
There are hotels and hostels in Ilulissat for every budget. Hotel Arctic offers stunning views of the icebergs from almost every room. Dining at the Greenlandic barbecue buffet on the hotel’s terrace is a memorable experience. When the temperature drops, you might want to enjoy a nightcap in the bar.

WORTH KNOWING
Greenlandic coffee is made with strong black coffee to symbolize the dark arctic night, whiskey and Kahlúa to reference the sometimes hard and harsh weather, cream to represent the icebergs, and Grand Marnier set aflame to symbolize the northern lights.

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