The kissaten is Japan’s answer to an American diner. The essential elements are coffee, stick-to-your-ribs food and a genial, homey atmosphere. Lawn in Yotsuya is a classic kissaten, the kind of place to smoke cigarettes and scribble in a notebook. There are no laptops in sight. Hiroaki Ogura, the owner, has been serving up orders for a half century. “We opened in Showa 29—that’s 1954, ” he says. “I took over the shop 10 years later, so I’ve been doing this for over 50 years.” This story is from Kinfolk Issue Thirty-Two Buy Now Related Stories Food City Guide Issue 32 Takemura A family teahouse. Food City Guide Issue 32 Higashiya Ginza A seasonal sweetshop. Food City Guide Issue 32 Okomeya A rice specialist. Arts & Culture Food Issue 43 Cold Comfort The plain decency of a doorstep casserole. Food Issue 42 Erchen Chang Bigger, better, bao-ier. Food Issue 41 A Mediterranean Supper Four citrusy recipes from the kitchen of Anissa Helou.
