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The kissaten is Japan’s answer to an American diner. The essential elements are coffee, stick-to-your-ribs food and a genial, homey atmosphere. Lawn in Yotsuya is a classic kissaten, the kind of place to smoke cigarettes and scribble in a notebook. There are no laptops in sight.

Hiroaki Ogura, the owner, has been serving up orders for a half century. “We opened in Showa 29—that’s 1954, ” he says. “I took over the shop 10 years later, so I’ve been doing this for over 50 years.”

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This story is from Kinfolk Issue Thirty-Two

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