The kissaten is Japan’s answer to an American diner. The essential elements are coffee, stick-to-your-ribs food and a genial, homey atmosphere. Lawn in Yotsuya is a classic kissaten, the kind of place to smoke cigarettes and scribble in a notebook. There are no laptops in sight. Hiroaki Ogura, the owner, has been serving up orders for a half century. “We opened in Showa 29—that’s 1954, ” he says. “I took over the shop 10 years later, so I’ve been doing this for over 50 years.” This story is from Kinfolk Issue Thirty-Two Buy Now Related Stories Food Issue 19 My Kitchen Table: Dominique Crenn French-born chef Dominique Crenn knows how to keep a level head and relishes the nights when she gets to cook to her own soundtrack. Food Issue 19 Recipe: Chamomile Cookies When your day is filled with too much excitement, taking time to sit quietly with these calming morsels and a cup of tea could be just the antidote. Food Issue 19 The Spicy Menu Nothing gets our hearts racing and noses running like a healthy dose of heat, but chile isn’t the only ingredient that gets our blood pumping. Food Issue 18 The Black and White Menu Despite being devoid of color, this menu is by no means short on taste—by limiting some of our senses, we can amplify others. Food Issue 17 Lunch with Peter Miller: White Bean Soup with Garlic and Sausage Lunch at the Shop: Seattle bookshop owner Peter Miller discusses the meaning of sitting down for lunch with your co-workers. Food Issue 17 The Blood Menu When we think of blood relatives, we consider comfort food, handed-down recipes and sharing meals with our families.
Food Issue 19 My Kitchen Table: Dominique Crenn French-born chef Dominique Crenn knows how to keep a level head and relishes the nights when she gets to cook to her own soundtrack.
Food Issue 19 Recipe: Chamomile Cookies When your day is filled with too much excitement, taking time to sit quietly with these calming morsels and a cup of tea could be just the antidote.
Food Issue 19 The Spicy Menu Nothing gets our hearts racing and noses running like a healthy dose of heat, but chile isn’t the only ingredient that gets our blood pumping.
Food Issue 18 The Black and White Menu Despite being devoid of color, this menu is by no means short on taste—by limiting some of our senses, we can amplify others.
Food Issue 17 Lunch with Peter Miller: White Bean Soup with Garlic and Sausage Lunch at the Shop: Seattle bookshop owner Peter Miller discusses the meaning of sitting down for lunch with your co-workers.
Food Issue 17 The Blood Menu When we think of blood relatives, we consider comfort food, handed-down recipes and sharing meals with our families.
