Oysters—which used to be sourced from river beds as cheap sustenance for impoverished workers—are now washed down with Champagne. Quinoa, a staple grain from the Andes, has become a costly commodity. Even caviar, a delicacy favored by the Russian elite, was once served as a free bar snack in American saloons in the hope that its saltiness would encourage drinking. If we can learn anything from these once-humble goodies, it’s that even the least glamorous can succeed with the right This story is from Kinfolk Issue Thirty-Five Buy Now Related Stories Food Issue 40 Chow Mein & Jello An ode to the buffet. Arts & Culture Food Issue 34 Last Supper What to eat at a funeral. Food Sanchez A taste of Mexico in Denmark. Food City Guide Chulwha From nature to table—via the grill: A new private dining experience in Seoul. Food Issue 29 Pep Talk Does pepper deserve its seat at the table? Food Issue 27 In Praise of Butter Spreading some love for saturated fat.