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  • Arts & Culture
  • Food
  • Issue 47

Object Matters

An itemized history of the menu. Words by Ed Cumming. Photograph by Studio Ingrid Picanyol.

The story of the menu is entwined with the history of commerce and personal liberty. For most of time, imaginative cooking was something the rich did at home—or, more likely, had done for them. The poor ate what they could get. Inns offered no choice: You ate whatever they had to offer on the day. After hours of traveling by horse or on foot, chances were you were too tired to be fussy anyway. The first inns to offer written


This story is from Kinfolk Issue Forty-Seven

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