Rifat Chadirji’s architecture was always an unconscious part of my Iraqi travelogues. As his homeland became a part of my inner and outer world over three decades of documenting pre- and post-invasion culture and society, so did his buildings. Back home in Vancouver, how could I conjure memories of Baghdad without visualizing his Central Post Office? The 1972 classic was looted and damaged after the ill-fated invasion in 2003, but still stands tall as a battle-scarred modernist relic. Or the phantom of his elegant Arch of Ctesiphon– inspired Monument to the Unknown Soldier in Firdos Square, replaced in the early 1980s (as Chadirji photographed its demise) with a statue of Saddam—one that would become a symbol of the This story is from Kinfolk Issue Forty-Seven Buy Now Related Stories Arts & Culture Issue 47 Draw the Line A short history of linear architecture. Arts & Culture Issue 47 CULT ROOMS In north Lebanon, two architects are rebuilding a corner of Oscar Niemeyer’s international fair. Arts & Culture Issue 46 Peer Review Upcycle designer Laurs Kemp on the influence of mid-century salvage artist Louise Nevelson. Arts & Culture Issue 45 Peer Review: Jean Lurçat Textiles expert Janis Jefferies on Jean Lurçat, the Frenchman who revived tapestry for the 20th century. Arts & Culture Issue 44 Peer Review: Minnette de Silva Shiromi Pinto introduces Minnette De Silva, the Sri Lankan modernist who inspired her novel. Arts & Culture Issue 43 Stone Cold A history of spite architecture.