The regional park where the butteri work is built on reclaimed marshland. The region is so rural because, for centuries, it was uninhabitable. In the southernmost stretch of Tuscany, known as the Maremma, wilderness still reigns. Beyond the manicured columns of cypress trees and pristine Renaissance villas that constitute the international image of this region, civilization exists in isolated clusters—the woodlands and marshes between them intimidatingly dense, and long considered inhospitable for all but the most tenacious souls. Where the wilderness meets the sea, rugged grasslands nourish the native Maremmana breed of broad-chested, lyre-horned cows, a species today protected by law, and guarded, This story is from Kinfolk Issue Forty-One Buy Now Related Stories Arts & Culture Issue 41 The Lighthouse Keeper of Beirut Victor Chebli has weathered storms, war and three kidnappings to maintain his family’s shining legacy. Arts & Culture Design Issue 41 Tile Making in Mallorca Biel Huguet charts the history of his island in colorful cement. Arts & Culture Issue 41 A Cinema in Tangier The artist Yto Barrada on co-founding a cinema for the city that inspires her art. Arts & Culture Issue 41 A Desperate Crossing Olivia Spili, of the NGO Sea-Watch, details a very different Mediterranean reality. Arts & Culture Issue 41 An Artist in Tunis Dora Dalila Cheffi is building her reputation, and her home, in the Tunisian capital. Arts & Culture Issue 51 Emily Gernild The Danish painter breathing new life into an old medium.