The return of long summer hikes and muggy afternoons typically inspires a change in our eating habits. After scarfing heaping piles of holiday ham and starchy casseroles during our hip-rounding hibernation, it’s a relief for our stomachs and minds to embrace the season’s bounty when the sunshine pushes fresh fruit from the earth and into our hands. While the best watermelons sound hollow when tapped, there’s plenty of substance—in both character and stature—to this gargantuan fruit. Its delicious pink flesh is a great reward after labor-intensive summer activities such as lugging one across the park to find a perfect picnic spot, and it’s a juicy recompense for figuring out how to crack through the tough rind when you’ve forgotten a knife (a coin and a lot of patience will eventually get you there). Watermelons allow us This story is from Kinfolk Issue Sixteen Buy Now Related Stories Arts & Culture Food Issue 47 Object Matters An itemized history of the menu. Arts & Culture Food Issue 46 At Work With: Deb Perelman The little blog that could: An interview with Smitten Kitchen’s unflappable founder. Food Issue 44 Whip Up a Storm Cozy recipes for inclement weather. Food Issue 40 Chow Mein & Jello An ode to the buffet. Food Issue 35 Modern Fancy The humble origins of high-end food. Arts & Culture Food Issue 34 Last Supper What to eat at a funeral.