When Martin Margiela started his eponymous line in the late ’80s, he shocked the fashion world with his iconoclastic vision. An identical shock occurred in the fashion world in 1997 when he was chosen to be the artistic director of Hermès’ women’s ready-to-wear collection. With a history stretching back 150 years, Hermès was known for its more traditional outlook. Many people predicted that Hermès’ conservative style could not mesh with Margiela’s offbeat ethos, and that Margiela’s influence would wane.

Instead, what followed was a resurgence of the iconic Parisian house. Rather than merely applying his deconstructivist philosophy to Hermès’ designs, Margiela added his insight into how to design for women. Until he left in 2003, his collections showcased his belief in designin...