Back in 2014, The Guardian asked: “Why on earth is food describing itself in the first person?” Now Kinfolk asks it again. The chatty tone, the casual ad copy—the printed equivalent of a server who sits in your booth and writes their name on your placemat—is ostensibly a rejection of corporate stoicism and a return to those mythical times when companies cared about their customers. Personification used to be the purview of poets; now it’s mandatory for lettuce to remind you that it prefers to be kept in the crisper. Coca-Cola insists it is here to “refresh the world and make a difference,” which is eye-rolling but at least open in its ambition for global dominance; contrast this with Chipotle’s bag-copy (“Don’t be a jerk. Try to love everyone,”) or Oatly’s directio...