Justin Cogley is executive chef at the nine-table restaurant Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel. When he’s not cooking up Michelin-starred tasting menus that celebrate California’s seasonal bounty, he spends his time running along the scenic Pacific coast in Carmel-by-the-Sea. His sporty nature goes back to his days as a professional ice skater, which, he says, got him used to “being on his feet all day.” A long-time Champagne aficionado, Cogley has been selected by Krug to create a rice-themed recipe for the Single Ingredient program.

Annick Weber: When we hear “Champagne,” we tend to think of aperitif. What’s your ideal moment for bubbles? 

Justin Cogley: When I go out for a special dinner, I like to drink Champagne all the way through, not just at the beginning of the meal but also in the middle and end. You can now find plenty of complex, not overly sweet Champagnes that work well with mains and desserts, too. At my restaurant, Aubergine, our sommelier can do Champagne pairings with our 10-course tasting menus. 

AW: Do all sparkling wines hold up well to food pairing, or is there something specific about Krug? 

JC: Krug has been a leader in the field for so long. They are master blenders, bringing a unique history to each glass. There are as many styles of Krug as there are tastes, and each has different nuances and profiles. I like to pair Krug Rosé with homey dishes such as my recipe for rice with crispy chicken skin: It’s full of fruity notes, showing you how versatile Champagne can be. The saltiness of the dish helps the Champagne’s aroma come out even more. 

AW: What do you like about cooking with rice?

JC: Rice seems like such a basic ingredient, but it takes a lot of knowledge to cook it right. Simple food is one of the hardest things to make well. That’s why at high-end sushi restaurants, many chefs don’t do anything but cook rice for years. Each type of rice seems to require a different cooking method, amount of liquid and time. I personally love working with a nutty short-grain rice from Sacramento. It’s an heirloom variety that not many people have heard of. Us chefs always want to find the best ingredients to allow guests to dine on something truly special. 

AW: Isn’t this also what Champagne makers do? 

JC: Absolutely. Champagne masters like Krug are constantly looking to show the versatility of a single type of produce—the grape—and transform it into something extraordinary. Their job is to search for the finest grapes and ideal growing methods, while modifying the procedures with global warming in mind.