Erchen CHANGBigger, better, bao-ier.

Erchen CHANGBigger, better, bao-ier.

  • Words Apoorva Sripathi
  • Photography Pelle Crépin

The uses Erchen Chang has found for bao might surprise you. For a Simone Rocha Christmas dinner in 2019, she created a bronzed turkey, sculpted entirely out of bao and filled with deep-fried mince pies. For a horror film–themed dinner for Hato Press in the same year, she fashioned a halibut from bao and made a performance out of “filleting” it. “All the guests took a piece home to have the next day,” recalls Chang, creative director of Bao London, speaking from her home in the British capital. “That’s kind of twisting people’s minds a little bit, but not too much—there’s warmth. There’s a feeling of entering someone else’s world, and that excites me.” 

Few people—chefs or artists—could achieve the same level of creativity through dough. Bao is, after all, not ...

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