Jewelry has been made using the lost-wax technique for thousands of years: The design is sculpted in wax, set in plaster—or another material, like sand—and heated until the wax melts away, leaving a form that is then filled with molten metal. After it cools, the plaster is removed, the piece is polished and maybe set with gemstones.

I taught myself how to carve wax. I had been dealing vintage jewelry for a number of years when clients began asking me to make custom pieces. At first, I enlisted help from professional wax carvers to realize my designs, but then I decided to learn how to do it. I dedicated a lot of blood, sweat and tears, and many hours spent reading and watching tutorials, to learning the techniques, and now, five years later, it’s the majority of my work.

Most of the pieces I make today are custom commissions, the majority of which start as wax carvings. Typically, they are chunky, monolithic engagement and bridal rings cast in gold and set with precious stones, though I did once do a divorce ring, which I loved.