SHEREENE IDRISS
- Words Fedora Abu
- Photos Hannah Rosa Lewis-Lopes
A dermatologist on the foundations of skin care.
- Words Fedora Abu
- Photos Hannah Rosa Lewis-Lopes
- Hair Lindsay Block
- Makeup Aya Tariq
( 1 ) Collagen is the body’s most abundant protein, giving structure to our skin, joints, bones, hair and nails. Despite the boom in drinks and supplements, there’s little evidence that ingestible collagen can meaningfully restore waning levels. What can help are the regular use of retinoids or treatments that create controlled micro-injuries—such as microneedling—both of which prompt the skin’s natural repair response and stimulate new collagen production.
( 2 ) The early phase of using retinoids can make skin look worse before it gets better—a period that's been dubbed the “retinoid uglies.” As cell turnover speeds up, dryness, redness and breakouts can be common, but usually only last for a few weeks. Starting slowly, moisturizing well and avoiding other strong actives can help the skin adapt while the long-term benefits begin to emerge.
Even for those who think they have a good grasp on skin care, a couple of minutes scrolling on social media can sow seeds of doubt. K-beauty, tretinoin, beef tallow—sorting through the maelstrom of trends, products and misinformation in the hope of finding a solution for your acne or a cream for your hyperpigmentation can raise more questions than answers.
( 1 ) Collagen is the body’s most abundant protein, giving structure to our skin, joints, bones, hair and nails. Despite the boom in drinks and supplements, there’s little evidence that ingestible collagen can meaningfully restore waning levels. What can help are the regular use of retinoids or treatments that create controlled micro-injuries—such as microneedling—both of which prompt the skin’s natural repair response and stimulate new collagen production.
( 2 ) The early phase of using retinoids can make skin look worse before it gets better—a period that's been dubbed the “retinoid uglies.” As cell turnover speeds up, dryness, redness and breakouts can be common, but usually only last for a few weeks. Starting slowly, moisturizing well and avoiding other strong actives can help the skin adapt while the long-term benefits begin to emerge.
