An Herb Shop in Athens.Herb specialist Evangelia Koutsovoulou treats Greek greens with the same reverence as wine and cheese.

An Herb Shop in Athens.Herb specialist Evangelia Koutsovoulou treats Greek greens with the same reverence as wine and cheese.

Issue 41

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Food

  • Words Sarah Souli
  • Photography Chris Kontos

“In villages, every old woman knows at least 10 wild greens growing nearby."

On a sun-drenched corner in the Neos Kosmos neighborhood of Athens, Evangelia Koutsovoulou has set up the office, laboratory and tasting room for Daphnis and Chloe, a herb company that has been capturing the heady aroma of Greece since 2013. Koutsovoulou, who is originally from central Greece, collaborates with organic farmers around the country, using sustainable farming practices to grow small quantities of indigenous herbs. Like many Greeks who live outside of big cities, Koutsovoulou grew up eating and drinking freshly foraged herbs such as wild thyme, oregano and mountain tea. But as she began traveling as a young adult, she realized that most people in Greek cities and elsewhere in Europe were cooking with old, mostly dried herbs. 

The shop is a labor of both love and patience: S...

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