Elaine Khosrova never intended to write an entire book on butter. A former pastry chef and food writer, her first exposure to butter’s wide-ranging properties came when she was assigned to a butter tasting. “I hadn’t expected to experience such a range of color, flavor and texture among the 12 or so samples, ” she recalls. “Knowing butter is essentially made from a simple process of agitation using just one ingredient—cream—I couldn’t account for why there was such variation.” This story is from Kinfolk Issue Twenty-Seven Buy Now Related Stories Food Issue 42 Erchen Chang BIGGER, BETTER, BAO-IER. Food Issue 40 Chow Mein & Jello An ode to the buffet. Food Issue 35 Modern Fancy The humble origins of high-end food. Arts & Culture Food Issue 34 Last Supper What to eat at a funeral. Food Sanchez A taste of Mexico in Denmark. Food City Guide Chulwha From nature to table—via the grill: A new private dining experience in Seoul.